Sandro Mosele is one of Victoria's most accomplished vignerons, his celebrated editions of Kooyong and Port Phillip estates are amongst the most cherished renderings of Burgundy styled Pinot Noir in the nation. Mosele has applied his art to a precious parcel of fruit, picked off a single, modest block of vine, grown to the fully fertile soils of a lamb and beef stud, on the brisk, maritime blown coastals of Gippsland South. This is not Pinot for profit, Walkerville represents an aesthetic appreciation of fruit from the farmer, invigorated by the blessings of providence and consecrations of local livestock. A cornucopia of comely characters, forcemeats and fennel, pectins and pith, Walkerville make Pinot Noir as it should be, bucolic, pastoral, articulate of the land whence it came...
The grazier's garden of gippsland»
Clonakilla are one of our nation's most eminent vineyard wineries, a tiny production operation, established by a CSIRO scientist at Murrumbateman, very near Canberra. It turned out to be a fortuitous planting, with a climate not dissimilar to Bordeaux and northern Rhone, the Clonakilla property now occupies a rank next to the mighty Grange on the prestigious Exceptional Langtons Classification, it yields vintages of Australia's most invaluable Shiraz. At $26.99, the estate's entry level belies its stature and excellence within the pantheon of great Australian wine, an essential experience this week for all enthusiasts, a canny choice for shrewd and judicious aspirants of elite new world Shiraz...
Here's what our most picky pundits prefer»
The nose expresses soil, earth and vinuous tones of vibrant black jelly fruit. In the early 1980s, due to lack of demand, the government paid incentives to growers to rip out their vines... More»
Full bodied and tightly structured, the palate exhibits perfect ripeness and brooding richness along with a spine of beautifully integrated acidity and fine tannin that will greatly reward. The view from Struie down towards Dornoch Firth, is as inspiring as the panorama across Barossa's Valley floor from atop... More»
In grand central Victorian styling, the palate shows abundant spice and pepper as well as fully ripe berry fruits, lovely rounded mouthfeel and texture, subtle oak in support. Blackjack has claimed the eminent M... More»
The palate is rich and satisfying with wonderful textural mouthfeel, finishing on a note of soft, polished tannins. It was lunch in the vineyard as it ticked past 12 o'clock, when I saw a sight I'll never forget... More»
Ripe juicy flavours of blackberry, spiced cherries, minerals and Asian spices wrapped around a skeleton of fresh acidity and fine mineral laden tannins. Torbreck founder David Powell is a frequenter of fashionable wine bar Les Juveniles whenever he's in Paris... More»
An intensely flavoured wine with melon and white nectarine on the palate, citrus, lemon zest and spicy, integrated French oak. Harry Friend was raised on a dairy farm in Gippsland which is now home to the Narkoojee vineyard wineworks... More»
Some precious old blocks of ancient vine Grenache still remain after a government sponsored program to cull unproductive vineyards during the 1980s. Yielding excruciatingly small harvests of the most characterful fruit, these wizzened old veterans deliver small batch vintages which are evocative of the old world classics from Cotes du Rhone. The enduring Wirra Wirra were established 1894, their eclectic range belies the splendour of small parcels which are separately handled and bottled for exclusive release. The Absconder draws fruit from vines planted a century ago, it merits a breathing and decant, an articulation about the sublime excellence of old vine Australian Grenache...
The compelling case for old vines grenache»
One of the Australian west's most enduring marques, the illustrious vineyards of Howard Park are now in their fourth and fifth decade. Langton's Listed and recipient of the most prestigious accolades, Grande Medialle d'Or Concours Mondial and London International Wine & Spirits Competition. Howard Park were established from the ground up with a strict adherence to sustainable, holistic viticulture. Planted to sheep studs along Margaret River's Wilyabrup Creek, drawing fruit from the oldest Cabernet vines on Mount Barker, renowned for opulence and structure, they continue to deliver a range of superlative single vineyard bottlings with each vintage...
The virtuous vines of howard park»